About this episode
In this episode, Janina takes us deep into one of the most dramatic stories in wine history - the arrival of phylloxera in 19th century Europe - and explores how that crisis continues to shape the wines we drink today.
She is joined by Jamie Goode - wine writer, judge, lecturer and author with a PhD in plant biology - to unpack the science behind grafting, the myth and magic of old vines, forgotten grape varieties, and whether ungrafted vines truly produce better wines.
From Japan’s wax paper “hats” protecting grape bunches, to Barossa’s centenarian vineyards, to modern disease-resistant varieties like Voltis and Floréal, this episode blends history, science and future-facing viticulture in one fascinating conversation.
If you’ve ever wondered whether ungrafted vines are superior, what actually happens during grafting, or how climate change might reshape grape varieties - this is your episode.
02:59 – The most surprising wine region Jamie has visited so far is Japan’s with it’s unique vineyard practices.
04:45 – Koshu explained - is it Japan’s most exciting grape variety, or are international grapes performing better?
06:38 – Behind the scenes of filming The Science of Wine (available to watch on WinemastersTV or Prime Video) - vineyards, Mosel landscapes and the unexpected challenges of production.
09:54 – Composing the soundtrack on the spot - Jamie’s spontaneous vineyard music recordings.
10:41 – Ungrafted vines: are they genuinely better, or is the answer more nuanced?
15:24 – The phylloxera story step by step - how one 19th-century plant import reshaped global wine.
20:53 – Forgotten varieties and whether they could make a comeback in the face of climate change.
22:46 – Loïc Pasquet (Liber Pater) and the revival of pre-phylloxera Bordeaux varieties.
29:04 – Francs de Pied movement - preserving ungrafted vineyards and the debate around their relevance.
31:21 – EU regulations and why planting ungrafted vines is often restricted.
31:55 – Rootstock resistance failures in California and Australia - are we facing new phylloxera risks?
34:33 – Soil microbiome experiments - could beneficial microorganisms protect ungrafted vines?
36:20 – How do you graft a vine? Omega grafts, English grafts and T-bud grafting explained.
40:49 – Inside a vine nursery - what really happens behind the scenes.
42:23 – Old vines vs young vines - do older vines truly produce better wines?
46:05 – Why old vines often yield less fruit - aging, pruning and vine physiology.
47:25 – Recommended wines f
